Some of my favourite pictures from Ghana...

Just happened to catch these kids walking in front of a wall - and they matched.

Fishing boat at Kokrobite Beach.

ry

Boy and his Jerry Can at Ada Foah.

Table built around the tree. Makes sense when we experienced a crazy wind sand storm - the tree is keeping the table in place. I stayed in the beach hut directly behind.

Busua Beach

Now that is dedication at Africa XI vs World XI to celebrate African Union Day - and peace in Africa.

Elephant tooth in jaw bone at Mole National Park.

Hide and Seek at Manya Krobo Bead Market.

Bridge at Akosombo at the base of Volta River/Dam - the world's largest man-made lake and source of electricity for Ghana.

Just one month...

Today officially marks one month remaining in Ghana.

And I thought I would celebrate with a "TOP 10" list of things I've grown to love in Ghana with hopes it will remind me to value this month as much as the first four, and to continue to dream big.

10. Goats on the side of the road.

Animals of all kinds graze anywhere they like.

9. Men in suits. Women in head wraps.

Seems like everyone is in their Sunday best... and I can barely manage to keep clean. Not fair.

8. Hankies. (sweat rags.)

Wiping sweat of your brow in public is not only necessary, but common.

7. Lightning storms.

Now that rainy season has begun, it is quite normal to wake up to the most magnificent lightning show. The sky lights up and thunder shakes my house. It's pretty incredible.

6. The Atlantic Ocean.

My previous experience includes a couple of trips to Myrtle Beach as a kid and hiding from jellyfish aka Méduse on Canada's East Coast. PS: The Gulf of Guinea is stunning and if you find a stretch that isn't a public dumping ground... relax and enjoy.

5. Electricity.

If you have it continuously for a week - you have hit the jackpot. Luckily, I live in region not-too-affected by blackouts. However, if the lights go out and you have things to do - tough luck.

4. Being called 'Obroni'.

In East Africa it was Mzungu, or Sister (if I was lucky), but in Ghana - I am an Obroni. And everyone enjoys reminding me everyday at all times. Regardless, it lets me make faces at kids and laugh... everyone thinks I am crazy anyways.

3. Pineapple. Mango. Coconut. Avocado. Pawpaw (papaya). Green Oranges, etc.

Fresh fruit is better than I've ever had. And it is not uncommon to eat an entire pineapple for breakfast. I don't know how I will afford this addiction when I get home.

2. Red dirt.

It sticks to everything.

1. Ghana's highlife/hiplife music scene.

Checking out weekly concerts at Alliance Francais, Reggae Nights around town, dancing down the street, and singing along to the all of 15 words to a song I know... it's amazing. At first, I was annoyed by Ghana's repetition of the same 5 songs over and over again.... now I know why.

They are the best.

AWAY!

Learning from peer educators

It has been some time since I have updated this blog – sorry, team.

Lots has happened. Most of it great. And I’ve been seeing and doing some pretty amazing things around Ghana.

One professional highlight was the opportunity to accompany Pro-Link HIV Counselling & Testing staff to an area of Accra called Agbogbloshie, known as one of the world’s largest E-waste dump sites. Pro-Link staff administered HIV tests to between 70-80 sex workers and their paying and non-paying partners (clients and boyfriends) as well as general community members.

We walked past the Onion Market (yes, an entire market dedicated to onions) and stopped by the local Police Station to let them know we would be interacting with community members and ask for permission to administer tests. The local police were friendly, although it was a small shock to see shirtless men locked up behind bars just past the counter ala John Wayne movie.

From there, we ventured off with Pro-Link Peer Educators – an incredible team of volunteers who outreach into communities to share messages of health promotion and encourage safer sex practices in a philosophy of harm reduction.

We stopped in people’s small courtyards, smiled at the curious kids who either pointed and yelled “Obroni” or who cried at the sight of me. The Peer Educators chatted up women and men of all ages, letting them know Pro-Link was offering free HIV testing in their community.

Just getting to the community wasn’t easy. We walked through mostly mud roads having luckily been warned to wear close-toed shoes.

I can’t imagine what rainy season will do to the alleyways that thousands of people walk everyday between tin-roofed houses and shipping container stores. Rains bring increased rates of illness – such as cholera, malaria, typhoid – creates massive traffic gridlock and floods entire communities.

Our team set up a small wooden table and began testing. While it wasn’t the textbook type of testing I’ve heard about in school… I was impressed with Pro-Link’s efforts to reach the people in greatest need and how accessible the testing was. Peers helping peers get tested. Not clinical or scary. In a language people understood.

Of course, there was an informative condom demonstration that showed the growing crowd how to protect themselves from STIs.

While most of the tests were negative – 3 people tested HIV+. One man and two women. Of the two women – one was 22 and the other was 15.

This is something I am still processing and I am not comfortable blogging about yet.

While I know HIV is not a death sentence – with minimal education, limited access to required medication, associated stigma, and the chance that others will also become infected… the outlook isn’t good. Our team provided follow-up contact information for post-testing counseling and referred people to the hospital.

This was not the type of environment to take pictures. But you can check out the  Facebook page I have created to highlight our work to see pictures, as well as follow Pro-Link on Twitter.

Voting from Ghana Ain't Easy...

This morning I tried to register to vote for the upcoming Canadian election on May 2, 2011.

Why so early and with unsure results? Because I am currently abroad - and voting from Ghana ain't easy.

Firstly, a friend picked up a voter registration form last week - but since the Canadian High Commission is open from 7:30 am - 12:00 pm Monday to Thursday, and I work full-time in Accra - here comes the first challenge.

So, while I had the forms and had visited the Elections Canada website a few times and checked the Canadian High Commission to Ghana and Togo's site as well - it looked like as long as the forms were in their hands by the Tuesday before the election... we shouldn't have a problem.

To my searching on the sloooooowest internet of life (I AM IN GHANA) I did not see any other deadlines posted.

So, I filled out the forms and made it to the HC this morning.

Enter: Security checks.

Of course, nothing electronic can go through the gate and we enter one by one - so surrender your ipod, phone, pen drive, laptop and internet modem ... basically my connection to the world outside of Accra... and I'm handed a key similar to the one I locked my diary up with when I was 12.

Great.

Signed in. Received my badge. Noticed the 25+ Ghanaians/West Africans sitting outside in the heat waiting for some sort of Visa processing, etc -  as I was herded inside to the air conditioning reserved for Canadians. Wow.

Sitting. Sitting. Sitting.

At last - can we just talk to someone? Reception? Anyone?

(Did I mention I had called earlier this morning at 8am but to no avail - no one picked up regarding voting and even though I left my number, 8 hours later... no call back.)

I thought getting people to vote was a government priority.

So finally, the lady at reception speaks to us - yes, we only accepted ballot registrations up to the 15th of April. Eliections Canada needs to process... blah blah blah. Time to mail, fumbles with some official looking papers, etc.

Oh, and it's Easter this weekend. So - TWO STATUTORY HOLIDAYS.

Easter is a big deal in the very religious/Christian Ghana, and most of Africa. Families will be gathering and work will stop for at least a few days on wither side of the official holidays. I'm really looking forward to it.

So, although it wasn't posted. And according to the deadlines - we have time...

I wrote my name and phone number on an unmarked white notepad - and she took my forms to fax. I'm sure they are more likely to end up in the bin (Canadian translation: trash) as I stepped outside the door.

Irritated with the failure of our government to ensure that there is a realistic and efficient process for Canadians wishing to vote abroad or from remote areas (I am in a capital city with a High Commission - I can't imagine if I was in a rural village with a weekly mail pick-up ... PS: Stephen Harper... this exists!) and realizing that most likely thousands of Canadians travelling/working/living abroad will most likely experience the same...

I might not be able to vote in this election... but I will vote on it...

It sucks.

Plain and simple. It's undemocratic. It's a waste. And I doubt anything will change.

I am young. But I am not apathetic. I am volunteering and working for positive change - and sadly, this election... I won't have a say.

A bunch of pictures...

Work and enjoying Ghana has left my blog quite empty lately.

I'm sorry.

But I just posted a bunch of new pictures to my Flickr account - so please peruse.

On other news, I have moved from my host family and am now living in an apartment with friends. It will have its own challenges - water will be more scarce and I will need to be self-reliant - however, I am looking forward to getting to cook for myself, and my room has A VIEW OF THE OCEAN.

Yes, it's distant and I have to squint through the screen that keeps the mosquitos out and me malaria-free... But nevertheless, it's there.

My commute to work has also been cut in half. Hurray!

I've spent weekends at various beaches - from the historic Cape Coast to a music festival in Busua, to an epic hike trekking through farmer's fields and over hills in Aburi.

I'm healthy. happy. and now responding to "Gifti" as no-one can pronounce Heather.

Cats and my house

So, this blog will be of few words... but the usual creepy cat pictures that I am known for.

Yes, we have 6 (ish) cats who roam around our house/compound.  They cry for food all the time... but tsthey are the best fed cats in Ghana. I make sure of it. Although they would like me better if I could offer them something other than vegetarian left-overs... if only I had some fish heads like my meat-eating housemates...


My favourite. I call him "Little One" because he is the the Little One. Has not grown in 7 weeks. Strange, right?



Plus, check out the pool where I've started to swim nightly. It's quite posh.

I duck under this laundry every morning and evening to get delicious Ghanaian specialties. Like Milo.

The road leading to Becca Swimming Pools. My home.

Our corner. Odds are this taxi just honked at me. They ALL do. Even if you just got out of one... they still want you to get in their taxi. It's not happening.

Our neighbours are goats. No, they aren't really. But animals here are free-range. So, you need to look "left, then right, and then for goats" when crossing the street.

I promise more pictures and more stories soon.

Lots of love. XOXO

A day or two at the beach...

Let me start by apologizing for my absence.

I’m sorry – I have been internet-free for a week now. Trust me, it has gotten to me more than it has to you.

Regardless, I want to share some updates from Ghana and show some pictures from my relaxing weekend at Kokrobite Beach and Big Milly.

Last week Friday, Aimee, Kat (2 other volunteers) and I made the journey out of big, sweaty Accra and headed west to the nearest beach town, Kokrobite

(pronounced KO-CROW-BEE-TAY). We had this GREAT idea to escape traffic by leaving the city a few hours early… We are so smart.

Well traffic is pretty steady in Accra… it took be half an hour on the side of a dusty road under construction to find a tro tro headed to Circle to meet the girls. When I finally got to Circle, the girls let me know that they were stuck in traffic and I should just hang out and wait for them.

Great.

(Note sarcasm!)

So, here I am with my backpack on, exhausted, and standing on the side of the road AGAIN for 40 minutes. At least I had a distraction…

I seemed to make the day of 2 boys (about 13-14) who were working/selling stuff/hanging out across the overpass from me. They kept waving at me. And I kept laughing. They were really funny…. At least until they started taking about a hundred pictures of me on their cell phones.

That was just hilarious.

Boys dodging through traffic to take pictures of the sweaty, lost solo-Obruni to be found.  So I laughed, and smiled at them and waited some more.

Finally, they worked up the nerve to send over a younger boy in a school uniform with a note. On it was their phone number – and I was supposed to write my number down for them to call me.

I almost choked – these boys have nerve! I am clearly not 13.

So, I wrote them back a note… didn’t give out my number, of course… and finally caught up with Kat and Aimee.

After a series of dodging through small alleys and markets, over an overpass, an one packed short bus ride between tro tro stations – to which we heard the very interesting Sales Pitch of a man selling some sort of miracle pills…. To the tune of “Blah blah blah (in Twi) hemmoroids…. Blah blah blah diarrhoea…. Blah blah Blah 2 Ghana cedis for 20 tablets… Blah blah blah constipation…” and carried on for about 15 minutes.

I couldn’t help but laugh. Yes, this man was selling 20 pills of some miracle drug on the bus for the equivalent of $1.50. And people were buying… how one pill can cure constipation, diarrhoea, hemorrhoids and an exhaustive list of other ailments… I do not know.

Finally, we made it to the right place to head out of the city.

Sigh of relief, right? Not so fast. The line had 75 people in it. So we waited amidst the car exhaust (diesel) and plastic bags blowing against our ankles in the wind until we were next to board the large tro tro to Kokrobite.

Finally we pile in and for 1 Ghana cedi (about $0.75) we start the 1.5 hour journey west.

It’s hot. We are taking back alleys to dodge traffic when possible. And we are crammed like sardines into a vehicle that probably was taken off the roads in some US city in the 70s.

Nevertheless, this is Africa and we are at least making our way out of town.

About an hour or two into our journey, our tro tro decides to pass the one moving slowly ahead of us. It should have been simple, but as the side of our tro tro smashes along the side of the smaller tro tro to our right… Kat nearly loses her arm that could have very well be out of the window. The painful screeching sound of metal-on-metal is followed closely by a popping and hissing as our tro tro grinds to a halt on the side of the road.

It’s now dark.

We pile out of the vehicle. We are ok, but clueless as to where exactly we are.

Across the street was a hotel. Suggesting we find out where we were… and eager to get away from a vehicle that may or may not explode… we headed over and befriended the security guard into calling us a taxi to our hotel.

As the tro tro we hit pulls up and a shouting match begins, I am not getting back into that tro tro.

Once the taxi arrives, we pay a few dollars and get door to door service.

Yay – we have made it to Big Milly. An infamous beach/Rasta hang out just in time for a West African dance troupe (see Cirque Du Soleil acrobats) cultural show. Dinner service was over, but they found us some fries and salad and we chowed down.

A few bottles of Star (local Ghanaian beer), some chatting with everyone around, we finally try to head to bed around 2am. Exhausted. But wait… we asked (and reconfirmed!!!) for 3 dorm beds and there are only 2? Ok, so in 30 degree C weather… Kat and I will share. Great.

Up again at 6… a walk on the beach shows it all to be worth it. The waves are big, the fishing boats are coming in… and boys are playing football (soccer) on the beach. A couple of the local dogs decide to keep us company, even though one’s limp is so bad she hobbles along on 3 feet.

We walk and walk. Enjoying the salty air and cool breeze before the sun comes up and the beach gets busy.

Which it does.

From fishermen bringing in the catch of the day – which you can buy and have cleaned for you on the spot – to curious children scampering about -  to other tourists/volunteers baking in the sun, to women selling beautiful printed simple beach dresses, to Rasta guys chilling, and even a Liberian refugee selling bags to support a school in the nearby refugee camp.

I lay out. Eat Eggplant Parm – Ghana style… spicy.

And enjoy the day…. And then Saturday night is Reggae night.

People start filing in from Accra, we eat pizza and chocolate cake from an authentic Italian restaurant… and chill in the open-air music venue to live Reggae.

It’s a chill environment. We meet friends who work mostly at Embassies in Accra – including American, Brazilian, etc – and other volunteers. We laugh. Joke about Ghana’s love for Celine Dion…. (weird, right? I thought it was only Beth Campbell!) and dance until the early morning.

Up again early and able to capture some great shots of the beach first thing in the morning.

Of course, followed by another day of good sun, good food, and good company.

Beach pictures will follow. I promise. I haven't used my camera nearly as much as I should be. But will upload as soon as possible. I promise, Dad. :)

A quick trip to the clinic!

I spent yesterday morning checking out the local medical facilities in my neighbourhood.

It looked as though Ellie, one of the recent volunteers to join us, had some bad bites on her foot. And... it is important to get stuff checked out here in Ghana early. Don't wait until you are in excruciating pain before you get help.

So, thought I would share a few pictures from our trip to the clinic.

We are both healthy - and happy. The rains have come in... VERY EARLY ... which brings increased malaria (see mosquitoes), cholera, and other water borne illnesses. So let's hope for another 4 months of good health.

(PS: Monday was my one month anniversary in Ghana!)

Rinat Clinic at American House, East Legon, Accra, Ghana

The clinic. We were seen within 10 minutes of walking in... no Toronto-style waiting room. But the to-be-expected soap opera was playing in the background.

As she pays 4 Ghana Cedis (about $3) to become a patient, Ellie gets her blood pressure checked by the nurse.

Round and round the tro tro goes... where it stops no one knows...!!!

This will be, sadly, a pictureless update.

Taking a picture on a Tro Tro would be

1. Invasive to the 20+ random strangers smushed into a beat-up van from the 90s
2. Impossible do to your sweaty hands - surrounded (on 2 sides!) by people makes every pore in your body sweat
3. An invitation to have your bag taken
4. A risk to your health - as many times... you need both hands to hold on.

Despite all of this... most days I spend upwards of 2+ hours of my day flying down dusty, Accra roads (when not stuck in bumper to bumper traffic jams) to the beat of a local preacher who has decided that he wants to share The Good News, deafening hiphop music, or the cell phone conversation of the driver who graciously holds my life in his hands as well as the many others filing in next to me.

But let me back up.

For those of you yet to experience Africa... or who have done so in a Lorry, suped up 4x4, private vehicle hire, or on the back of a motorcycle... I will explain.

Sigh.

A tro tro...

(or shared minibus as tro tro is merely the Ghanain word... but by no means the inventor of this mass transit system)

... is a converted van meant to maybe transport 6-7 people that now holds around 20. Operated by a driver and a Mate - who takes the payment and operates the door. He lets people on and off and you have to tell him where you are going to be able to calculate the fair. Lucky for me, fares are really affordable as this is as local as transport gets... minus walking.

How do you fit 20 people into a Ford van? While it is definitely 3-to-a-seat (as per school bus days) and then a fold down seat on the aisle so that people behind you can get on and off.

Yes, this means that if the person behind you wants off... and you are on the aisle (which oddly, I always am!) you have to wiggle your way out of the van and back on. And fast - time is money people!

How do you know where you are going? Great question. Instead of a flashing sign or specific route... each Tro Tro chooses where it wants to go. The Mate will make hand signals out of the window - and you flag the Tro Tro down by showing the signal you want... making a circle with your hand means to Circle, pointing down means Roundabout. These are two popular landmarks in Accra. Did I mention there are no recognizable street names? But you better know the junction (intersection) where you wish to deboard!

Don't ask me the difference between a Circle and a Roundabout. There isn't one.

So, piled in. You tell the Mate your destination - hand him between $0.50 and $0.75 and off we go!

When you see your stop, simply say "Mate, Bus stop." exit the vehicle with hopefully as many limbs as you entered... and you've survived the Tro Tro.

Easy right?

Yesterday proved not so much as on my way to work as I shimmied along to squish myself in between a few businessmen I ripped a hole in the "seat" of my skirt along the rusty, jagged window ledge. At least it was just my skirt... clothes don't need a tetanus shot.

So, what is a girl to do? Gettnig enough attention already... couldn't walk around with a rip in my "seat"... so just turned the skirt around... and off we went... dashing across 6 lanes of traffic, past the outdoor urinal (a ditch beside a busy highway), past the boxes of perfume for sale on the sidewalk, around several ladies with different wooden boxes of baked goods/eggs on their heads to sell.... and onto my next Tro Tro ride to work.

I survived. Stopped by a local fabric strore to enquire if they had a similar material to make myself another skirt. They didn't, but would go into the city and let me know a price for material on Thursday.

More skirts equals less laundry-by hand. Please don't judge. It's really hot and washing your clothes in a bucket is only fun for so long.

On the way home... another adventure. Instead of my Madina Tro Tro taking the normal route home... traffic was bad.... so it decided to take another route. OK... but what does that mean for me whose stop was skipped?

Well it means that my 45 minute commute turned into just less than 3 hours.

Made it to Madina, backtracked to a station I am familiar with... and then waited with about 200 other people to get home.

I could only laugh to myself as people risked their lives running alongside moving vehicles to get a spot on a Tro Tro. This is of course before they know if it is event their route!

A man just shook his head, asked me where I was going... and said, "This is our transit system."

Nevertheless, I refuse to fight and push people to get a spot... which meant I stood on the side of the road for about 40 minutes. I think Ghana might toughen this girl up! :)

Finally, a shared taxi arrived for American House. My route - and luckily a guy held a spot for me.

That of course translated into him trying to pay for me. And an attempt to get my phone number.

Hint: Gentlemen of the world - ask her name before you ask for her number.

But I made it home. Well after dark. Ready for a cold shower and bed.

I love Accra. Dusty, sweaty Tro Tros and all.

$26 can change 26 lives.

February 4th is/was my 26th birthday.

And I need you to donate $26 (or what you can afford to give) to support women and girls, and communities affected by HIV/AIDS.

It's easy. Just click here.

In turn, I will share the stories of 26 people I meet while working with Pro-Link in Ghana.

Women, children, and community members whose stories are waiting to be heard.

Why am I asking for your help?

Two reasons:

1. As part of my commitment to CCI, I am to raise awareness and funds to support organizations and projects, like Pro-Link. Your support will help me to reach my goal of $1000 before I leave Ghana on June 25th.
2. Last year, I created a list of "25 Things I wanted to do while I was 25"... and with just a few hours left, there are some things on the list I am still working towards. They were about "my story"... this year, I want to shape my story around the people I meet. And to share them with you.

Please consider making a donation.

In Canada, you will get a tax receipt. But everyone gets good karma.

Kari and Ji Young's last days at Pro-Link

Today we celebrated the accomplishments of Kari and Ji Young, who are wrapping up their 5 month mandates at Pro-Link.

Kari has shown me the ropes as I will be following her work in resource mobilization.

Ji young has been my guide to the city - showing me how to get around, where the good lunch spots are, and laughing alot.

They will be missed, but I anxiously await the three new volunteers who will arrive at the end of next week.

Does this mean I am to be their guide? Guess I better start studying!

Congratulations Kwame and Dzifa!

On Saturday, about one hundred people gathered around the garden at Becca Pools in East Legon, Accra, Ghana to celebrate the engagement of Kwame and Dzifa.

Our whole host family spent the week cleaning up the gardens around the house, getting new hair dos, and preparing for the big celebration.

White tents were set up. Round tables surrounded by chairs and topped with floral centerpieces surrounded the ceremony site. Balloons hung in the air and in the pool.

This engagement ceremony is also the traditional marriage – or joining of Kwame and Dzifa’s families.

The groom must bring gifts for the bride and her family. Some of these gifts include, but are not limited to:

-          Pieces of cloth

-          2 Bottles of Schnapps

-          A big suitcase

-          Underwear and brassieres

-          Assorted drinks – mineral/bottled water and soda

-          A bible

-          Slippers and matching bag

-          Jewelry

And a sewing machine or blender can also sometimes be added to the list.

This is in addition to the dowry that is to be paid for the bride. And since Dzifa is so stunning, I am sure Kwame handed over many, many Cedis.

All of these gifts and more are carried in on the heads of Kwame’s family. And Dzifa’s family receive them – including me, apparently, as I became part of the welcoming/receiving line.

A representative from Kwame’s family presents the gifts to Dzifa’s family as they sit across from each other under the white tent.

Kwame’s family is from the Ashanti region in Ghana and speak Twi. Dzifa’s family is from the Volta region and speak Ewe. The pastor made some really inspiring comments (lucky for me, in English!) about marriage as God’s will and we shouldn’t let differences – like tribe – or other divisions – stand in the way. He was much more eloquent and quite the story-teller. I’m sure more stories are to follow from my Sunday church adventures.

The clothing that each family wore represented their region. For example, some members of Kwame’s family wore Kente cloth, which is a type of silk and cotton interwoven fabric originating from the Akan people and known as the cloth of kings. It is royal and sacred – worn only during times of great importance.

Once the gifts were presented, it was time to welcome the bride and groom! Yes, the 45 minute ceremony that preceded was without the couple of honour!

Kwame’s family, featuring the HILARIOUS linguist at the forefront, danced and sang as he joined the ceremony. They greeted Dzifa’s family.

Dzifa’s family then danced and sang her into the tent – followed closely by her younger sister Yvonne. All smiles as Dzifa looked radiant in soft pink.

She asked her father for permission to marry the man she loves.

A bible and rings were exchanged all while SURROUNDED by paparazzi a.k.a. loving family members with cell phones and cameras.

Then we all received delicious drinks – mine a Passion Fruit Alvaro – simply amazing – and then a buffet style dinner was served.

Dinner was followed by dancing well into the afternoon and guests headed home as the sun set around 6pm.

The church wedding is set for a weeks from now and I am looking forward to attending this as well. I’m sure it will be another opportunity to learn about Ghanaian culture, experience an important tradition, and be part of this amazing family.

Better than any episode of Say yes to the dress.

Kwa Pamoja: 3 Peaks 3 Weeks 2011!

This time last year I was preparing to summit Mt Kilimanjaro.

Very slowly. (I definitely mastered the concept of 'pole pole')

As part of the 2010 3 Peaks 3 Weeks Challenge: Africa, I was able to participate in a truly life-changing experience. Together, 11 women from across the world climbed 3 of Africa's highest peaks for peak issues affecting Africa today: the environment, education, and HIV/AIDS. The commitment and learning that I experienced during 3P3W has been a platform for my current work in Ghana.

I loved the experience. And tonight, the 2011 team will make their Kili summit attempt. These incredible women (and some of the best mountain guides in the world - Summits Africa) will start in the dark to make it to the peak around sunrise.

They have raised over $91,000 USD for grassroots East African organizations working towards sustainable change for families in Kenya and Tanzania.

I know how challenging this summit will be. And these girls and guides are in my heart today as they climb for change.

To follow their journey, please check out LIVE updates from the mountains.

To learn more about 3 Peaks 3 Weeks, please click here.

Where did that chicken get its hair did?

With a little less than a week here in Accra, I've had the chance to do and see some pretty cool things.

Firstly, I saw a man wearing a Toronto Raptors Vince Carter jersey on our daily shared minibus (tro tro).

I am sure there will be many more posts dedicated to these tro tros  as they make up the bulk of my non working hours and are truly  a sight to be seen.

Ghana, like many places in Africa, is known for the creative naming of products and places.

So far, I have drank "Christmas is everyday" water and passed "Feeling Wiggy Hair Salon." These are, of course, in addition to the numerous religiously named shops and businesses.

I also have had the chance to see some of the cutest kids - including 2 boys with their mom, wearing pink school uniforms and holding up their too-big pants as they cross the street next to me. Most of the young children are most likely to be found asleep on their mother's back. Pictures to follow.

Driving down the road I saw an ad for some sort of piece of construction equipment called a "Pedestrian Roller"... Um...??? What could that actually be? Curiosity might get the best of me and I'll have to inquire.

Chickens in Ghana are totally free range, which means they walk next to you on the street.
This proves distracting for me as I like to watch them and admire how cute the chicks are, etc. Plus, it proves distracting for curious Ghanaians who can't help but stare at the crazy chicken-loving Obruni!

What is actually the most hysterical are actually all of the chickens with a weave.

What? Chickens with a weave?

Yes.

Somehow all of the fake hair from the roadside beauty parlors ends up wrapped around the ankles of the chickens roaming around.

It doesn't help that there is a cosmetology college across the street from our office.

The chickens have better hair than I do at the moment... The humidity doesn't help! :)

This weekend my host sister will have an engagement ceremony, Which is also a traditional wedding. Looking forward to it and I'll make sure to take lots of pictures. A more serious post to follow... just wanted to share some of the Accra-life highlights so far.

From Amsterdam to Accra...

The Amsterdam Airport is lovely. With cozy chairs, live piano, and a cool water massage table... Aimee and I were amused as we wandered around for an hour or two before our connecting flight to Accra.

Our flight from Amsterdam to Accra was not without surprises. What good luck that the middle seat was empty, that the plane wasn't freezing and that my legs were no longer feeling restless.
I was asleep before takeoff as it was about 8am EST and I didn't sleep very well the first time around. What woke me up?

The Pyrenees.

Between France and Spain - these mountains are a breath-taking aerial view. However, my view was slightly interrupted by SEVERE turbulence.

Not joking when I say severe.
The plane was shaking, we were taking a few nose dives as we hit air pockets and it really just felt like a roller coaster.

With my stomach in my throat, I tried to avoid the panicked expression that matched my anxiety level. I don't think I was successful as I tightened my seat belt and prepared to be tossed around a little. The woman in the row over was nearly hysterical.

But we pulled through. No harm, no foul. Just the mountains, the pilot explained later over the PA. The plane is built for this- yes it can be frightening, but nothing to worry about.

Mountains. They shake you up. It's their nature to push you to your limit.

As we flew directly due south from the Netherlands, we got to see the most incredible views of the Sahara desert - just hundreds of kilometres of sand dunes shaped by the wind. Truly stunning.

And as we rolled slowly into Ghanaian airspace, the sun. It looked like we were chasing the most beautiful red glow of a new home.

Fire. Warmth. Adventure.

Finally, the day has arrived.

And I am embarking on a new adventure.

Right now I am alone in the airport... well, ok. Not technically alone, (which would probably be problematic and a massive security breach!) But feels this way because I have checked into my flight about 4 hours early.

That's what happens when you Dad decides to take up piano lessons and has a regularly scheduled Thursday appointment. And if you know about the public transit options to  YYZ - you don't complain.

But, anyways. I am through security and enjoying free wifi compliments of Pearson.

 Check out the complete lack of people behind me in the airport. Hahaha. Ok, one guy, maybe?

Today was a mishmash of a day. Chatted with the incredible Sarah Young, one of my heroes, who of course brought on the first sad pre-trip tears. The rest have been out of frustration for TD Bank, etc. But I won't get into that... it's just the kind of thing you don't need right before you leave the country for 5 months.

On top of that, I spent the day with my Mom and my Dad. Incredibly supportive and helpful in the home stretch.

I think I have everything. And if I don't, I am confident I can live without it.

Don't fret - we made a last minute trip to the grocery store for ziploc bags, oreo cookies, and a bottle of maple syrup for my new Ghanaian family.

I hope to make them pancakes soon. It's a big bottle.

On top of just packing stuff, my lovely friend Jon just back from Costa Rica (and tanned!) posted something really interesting on his Facebook. I thought I would share.

The website is If It Were My Home and it compares common markers of quality of life between countries. And asks the question... what would your life be like if you were born in another corner of the world?

I learned...

If Ghana were my home instead of Canada, I would...

have 10 times higher chance of dying in infancy

 

be 4.8 times more likely to have HIV/AIDS

 

have 2.7 times more babies

 

die 20.74 years sooner

 

use 98.52% less electricity

consume 96.56% less oil

 

make 96.09% less money

 

spend 97.93% less money on health care

 

experience 22.74% more of a class divide

So on this flight, instead of just turning on the latest rom-com and enjoying complimentary KLM drinks... I will be thinking about these numbers. What they mean. The privilege that comes tied to them. And just how fortunate and blessed I am.

Wish me a safe flight - next update from Accra!

Lots of love,
Heather

1 Week - 7 Days - 10080 Minutes - 604800 Seconds

This time next week, I will be on my way to YYZ.

That's airport code for Pearson International Airport in Toronto... and where I'm departing from for Ghana on January 20th.

Accra will be my home. Right there on the coast. Surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. Bordered by The Ivory Coast, Burkina Fasco, Benin and Togo. And I can't wait.

I fly through Amsterdam. An airport that is quickly feeling like home. Just 2 flights. Not too shabby - thanks KLM.

I've been reading local papers. And I suggest

Think Ghana

Modern Ghana

Ghana Web

Ghana News

Make sure to share any good articles you find about Ghana! I can't wait to read them.

A new year, a new adventure...

The final stretch until my departure for Ghana on the 20th is less than 2 weeks away!!!

                                                        This is how excited I am!!!

And with only a week left of work to wrap up projects and set up the spring for a good friend who will be taking over the portfolio I've been managing for the past 4 months!

It's all very exciting, but extremely nerve-wracking.

Some of the good and exciting news is that our support team from CCI - mostly the wonderful Nika -  has introduced me to some of the other volunteers who will be joining me at Pro-Link in the upcoming months.

I think it will be cool to have two additional volunteers there to share the journey. And, since their mandates are so different, but complimentary, I think there will be great potential to share ideas and learn from each other. I am particularly interested in Melissa's work in Monitoring and Evaluation as this is a skill I want to continue to develop and apply.

Also, I am looking forward to speaking with Kari this week who has been at Pro-Link since September. She is going to be a wealth of knowledge as to how I can finish preparations over these last few days and ease into a transition into Pro-Link professional culture.

Plus, I am sure she will be at the airport welcoming me to Accra with these women...

Until then, I am googling, reading articles, and spending time with friends and family who tell me they will miss me dearly.