Wednesday, February 23, 2011

A quick trip to the clinic!

I spent yesterday morning checking out the local medical facilities in my neighbourhood.

It looked as though Ellie, one of the recent volunteers to join us, had some bad bites on her foot. And... it is important to get stuff checked out here in Ghana early. Don't wait until you are in excruciating pain before you get help.

So, thought I would share a few pictures from our trip to the clinic.

We are both healthy - and happy. The rains have come in... VERY EARLY ... which brings increased malaria (see mosquitoes), cholera, and other water borne illnesses. So let's hope for another 4 months of good health.

(PS: Monday was my one month anniversary in Ghana!)

Rinat Clinic at American House, East Legon, Accra, Ghana

The clinic. We were seen within 10 minutes of walking in... no Toronto-style waiting room. But the to-be-expected soap opera was playing in the background.

As she pays 4 Ghana Cedis (about $3) to become a patient, Ellie gets her blood pressure checked by the nurse.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Round and round the tro tro goes... where it stops no one knows...!!!

This will be, sadly, a pictureless update.

Taking a picture on a Tro Tro would be

  1. Invasive to the 20+ random strangers smushed into a beat-up van from the 90s
  2. Impossible do to your sweaty hands - surrounded (on 2 sides!) by people makes every pore in your body sweat
  3. An invitation to have your bag taken
  4. A risk to your health - as many times... you need both hands to hold on.
Despite all of this... most days I spend upwards of 2+ hours of my day flying down dusty, Accra roads (when not stuck in bumper to bumper traffic jams) to the beat of a local preacher who has decided that he wants to share The Good News, deafening hiphop music, or the cell phone conversation of the driver who graciously holds my life in his hands as well as the many others filing in next to me.

But let me back up.

For those of you yet to experience Africa... or who have done so in a Lorry, suped up 4x4, private vehicle hire, or on the back of a motorcycle... I will explain.

Sigh.

A tro tro...

(or shared minibus as tro tro is merely the Ghanain word... but by no means the inventor of this mass transit system)

... is a converted van meant to maybe transport 6-7 people that now holds around 20. Operated by a driver and a Mate - who takes the payment and operates the door. He lets people on and off and you have to tell him where you are going to be able to calculate the fair. Lucky for me, fares are really affordable as this is as local as transport gets... minus walking.

How do you fit 20 people into a Ford van? While it is definitely 3-to-a-seat (as per school bus days) and then a fold down seat on the aisle so that people behind you can get on and off.

Yes, this means that if the person behind you wants off... and you are on the aisle (which oddly, I always am!) you have to wiggle your way out of the van and back on. And fast - time is money people!

How do you know where you are going? Great question. Instead of a flashing sign or specific route... each Tro Tro chooses where it wants to go. The Mate will make hand signals out of the window - and you flag the Tro Tro down by showing the signal you want... making a circle with your hand means to Circle, pointing down means Roundabout. These are two popular landmarks in Accra. Did I mention there are no recognizable street names? But you better know the junction (intersection) where you wish to deboard!

Don't ask me the difference between a Circle and a Roundabout. There isn't one.

So, piled in. You tell the Mate your destination - hand him between $0.50 and $0.75 and off we go!

When you see your stop, simply say "Mate, Bus stop." exit the vehicle with hopefully as many limbs as you entered... and you've survived the Tro Tro.

Easy right?

Yesterday proved not so much as on my way to work as I shimmied along to squish myself in between a few businessmen I ripped a hole in the "seat" of my skirt along the rusty, jagged window ledge. At least it was just my skirt... clothes don't need a tetanus shot.

So, what is a girl to do? Gettnig enough attention already... couldn't walk around with a rip in my "seat"... so just turned the skirt around... and off we went... dashing across 6 lanes of traffic, past the outdoor urinal (a ditch beside a busy highway), past the boxes of perfume for sale on the sidewalk, around several ladies with different wooden boxes of baked goods/eggs on their heads to sell.... and onto my next Tro Tro ride to work.

I survived. Stopped by a local fabric strore to enquire if they had a similar material to make myself another skirt. They didn't, but would go into the city and let me know a price for material on Thursday.

More skirts equals less laundry-by hand. Please don't judge. It's really hot and washing your clothes in a bucket is only fun for so long.

On the way home... another adventure. Instead of my Madina Tro Tro taking the normal route home... traffic was bad.... so it decided to take another route. OK... but what does that mean for me whose stop was skipped?

Well it means that my 45 minute commute turned into just less than 3 hours.

Made it to Madina, backtracked to a station I am familiar with... and then waited with about 200 other people to get home.

I could only laugh to myself as people risked their lives running alongside moving vehicles to get a spot on a Tro Tro. This is of course before they know if it is event their route!

A man just shook his head, asked me where I was going... and said, "This is our transit system."

Nevertheless, I refuse to fight and push people to get a spot... which meant I stood on the side of the road for about 40 minutes. I think Ghana might toughen this girl up! :)

Finally, a shared taxi arrived for American House. My route - and luckily a guy held a spot for me.

That of course translated into him trying to pay for me. And an attempt to get my phone number.

Hint: Gentlemen of the world - ask her name before you ask for her number.

But I made it home. Well after dark. Ready for a cold shower and bed.

I love Accra. Dusty, sweaty Tro Tros and all.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

$26 can change 26 lives.

February 4th is/was my 26th birthday.

And I need you to donate $26 (or what you can afford to give) to support women and girls, and communities affected by HIV/AIDS.

It's easy. Just click here.

In turn, I will share the stories of 26 people I meet while working with Pro-Link in Ghana.

Women, children, and community members whose stories are waiting to be heard.

Why am I asking for your help?

Two reasons:
  1. As part of my commitment to CCI, I am to raise awareness and funds to support organizations and projects, like Pro-Link. Your support will help me to reach my goal of $1000 before I leave Ghana on June 25th.
  2. Last year, I created a list of "25 Things I wanted to do while I was 25"... and with just a few hours left, there are some things on the list I am still working towards. They were about "my story"... this year, I want to shape my story around the people I meet. And to share them with you.
Please consider making a donation.

In Canada, you will get a tax receipt. But everyone gets good karma.

Kari and Ji Young's last days at Pro-Link

Today we celebrated the accomplishments of Kari and Ji Young, who are wrapping up their 5 month mandates at Pro-Link.

Kari has shown me the ropes as I will be following her work in resource mobilization.




Ji young has been my guide to the city - showing me how to get around, where the good lunch spots are, and laughing alot.



They will be missed, but I anxiously await the three new volunteers who will arrive at the end of next week.

Does this mean I am to be their guide? Guess I better start studying!

Monday, January 31, 2011

Congratulations Kwame and Dzifa!

On Saturday, about one hundred people gathered around the garden at Becca Pools in East Legon, Accra, Ghana to celebrate the engagement of Kwame and Dzifa.

Our whole host family spent the week cleaning up the gardens around the house, getting new hair dos, and preparing for the big celebration.




White tents were set up. Round tables surrounded by chairs and topped with floral centerpieces surrounded the ceremony site. Balloons hung in the air and in the pool.
This engagement ceremony is also the traditional marriage – or joining of Kwame and Dzifa’s families.



The groom must bring gifts for the bride and her family. Some of these gifts include, but are not limited to:
-          Pieces of cloth
-          2 Bottles of Schnapps
-          A big suitcase
-          Underwear and brassieres
-          Assorted drinks – mineral/bottled water and soda
-          A bible
-          Slippers and matching bag
-          Jewelry
And a sewing machine or blender can also sometimes be added to the list.
This is in addition to the dowry that is to be paid for the bride. And since Dzifa is so stunning, I am sure Kwame handed over many, many Cedis.
All of these gifts and more are carried in on the heads of Kwame’s family. And Dzifa’s family receive them – including me, apparently, as I became part of the welcoming/receiving line.

A representative from Kwame’s family presents the gifts to Dzifa’s family as they sit across from each other under the white tent.
Kwame’s family is from the Ashanti region in Ghana and speak Twi. Dzifa’s family is from the Volta region and speak Ewe. The pastor made some really inspiring comments (lucky for me, in English!) about marriage as God’s will and we shouldn’t let differences – like tribe – or other divisions – stand in the way. He was much more eloquent and quite the story-teller. I’m sure more stories are to follow from my Sunday church adventures.
The clothing that each family wore represented their region. For example, some members of Kwame’s family wore Kente cloth, which is a type of silk and cotton interwoven fabric originating from the Akan people and known as the cloth of kings. It is royal and sacred – worn only during times of great importance.

Once the gifts were presented, it was time to welcome the bride and groom! Yes, the 45 minute ceremony that preceded was without the couple of honour!
Kwame’s family, featuring the HILARIOUS linguist at the forefront, danced and sang as he joined the ceremony. They greeted Dzifa’s family.
Dzifa’s family then danced and sang her into the tent – followed closely by her younger sister Yvonne. All smiles as Dzifa looked radiant in soft pink.



She asked her father for permission to marry the man she loves.
A bible and rings were exchanged all while SURROUNDED by paparazzi a.k.a. loving family members with cell phones and cameras.



Then we all received delicious drinks – mine a Passion Fruit Alvaro – simply amazing – and then a buffet style dinner was served.
Dinner was followed by dancing well into the afternoon and guests headed home as the sun set around 6pm.
The church wedding is set for a weeks from now and I am looking forward to attending this as well. I’m sure it will be another opportunity to learn about Ghanaian culture, experience an important tradition, and be part of this amazing family.
Better than any episode of Say yes to the dress.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Kwa Pamoja: 3 Peaks 3 Weeks 2011!

This time last year I was preparing to summit Mt Kilimanjaro.

Very slowly. (I definitely mastered the concept of 'pole pole')

As part of the 2010 3 Peaks 3 Weeks Challenge: Africa, I was able to participate in a truly life-changing experience. Together, 11 women from across the world climbed 3 of Africa's highest peaks for peak issues affecting Africa today: the environment, education, and HIV/AIDS. The commitment and learning that I experienced during 3P3W has been a platform for my current work in Ghana.

I loved the experience. And tonight, the 2011 team will make their Kili summit attempt. These incredible women (and some of the best mountain guides in the world - Summits Africa) will start in the dark to make it to the peak around sunrise.


They have raised over $91,000 USD for grassroots East African organizations working towards sustainable change for families in Kenya and Tanzania.

I know how challenging this summit will be. And these girls and guides are in my heart today as they climb for change.

To follow their journey, please check out LIVE updates from the mountains.

To learn more about 3 Peaks 3 Weeks, please click here.

Where did that chicken get its hair did?

With a little less than a week here in Accra, I've had the chance to do and see some pretty cool things.

Firstly, I saw a man wearing a Toronto Raptors Vince Carter jersey on our daily shared minibus (tro tro).

I am sure there will be many more posts dedicated to these tro tros  as they make up the bulk of my non working hours and are truly  a sight to be seen.

Ghana, like many places in Africa, is known for the creative naming of products and places.

So far, I have drank "Christmas is everyday" water and passed "Feeling Wiggy Hair Salon." These are, of course, in addition to the numerous religiously named shops and businesses.

I also have had the chance to see some of the cutest kids - including 2 boys with their mom, wearing pink school uniforms and holding up their too-big pants as they cross the street next to me. Most of the young children are most likely to be found asleep on their mother's back. Pictures to follow.

Driving down the road I saw an ad for some sort of piece of construction equipment called a "Pedestrian Roller"... Um...??? What could that actually be? Curiosity might get the best of me and I'll have to inquire.

Chickens in Ghana are totally free range, which means they walk next to you on the street.
This proves distracting for me as I like to watch them and admire how cute the chicks are, etc. Plus, it proves distracting for curious Ghanaians who can't help but stare at the crazy chicken-loving Obruni!

What is actually the most hysterical are actually all of the chickens with a weave.

What? Chickens with a weave?

Yes.

Somehow all of the fake hair from the roadside beauty parlors ends up wrapped around the ankles of the chickens roaming around.

It doesn't help that there is a cosmetology college across the street from our office.

The chickens have better hair than I do at the moment... The humidity doesn't help! :)

This weekend my host sister will have an engagement ceremony, Which is also a traditional wedding. Looking forward to it and I'll make sure to take lots of pictures. A more serious post to follow... just wanted to share some of the Accra-life highlights so far.